Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a international community of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their younger generation are unwilling to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to learn these tales and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
